Why the Korean Templestay program is the ultimate retreat

A guide on choosing a program and what to expect from it.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

• What is the TempleStay program?
• Which TempleStay is right for you
• How to make a reservation
• What to expect
• A review of my experience

What is the TempleStay program?

TempleStay is a cultural program that was launched in 2002 with the goal of bridging the gap between Korean Buddhist temples and the public. For over 1700 years, the monks in these temples have been practising Mahayana Buddhism.

In South Korea, it has become a popular weekend retreat for urbanites seeking a respite from the fast-paced city life. It is also one of the major tourist programs in South Korea.

And I am so happy that this exists! It is, first and foremost, a cultural experience. It offers you the peace and introspection of a meditation retreat but with a cultural twist. A hands-on crash course on Korean Buddhism that shouldn’t be missed on a trip to South Korea, making it a truly authentic opportunity.

Which TempleStay is right for you

To help narrow down the overwhelming number of experiences to choose from, here are some suggestions:

Begin by filtering programs based on the available dates. Some Temple Stays are only open to the public on specific weekends, while others offer weekend and weekday options. The most popular programs may be fully booked months in advance. For instance, the Baekyangsa Temple, which gained fame after being featured on the Chef’s Table episode, is now in high demand and has limited availability, making it almost impossible to book.

Another important issue to have in mind is that every temple offers a signature experience. Some offer craft workshops, while others offer cooking classes or martial arts training. If you have the time, try out more than one because not two experiences are the same.

The location of the temple is also significant. South Korea is a small country, so you will likely find many temples that can fit into your itinerary.

City or countryside? Some urban temples in Seoul can offer surprising peace, while the ones settled in the mountains can provide a true away-from-it-all experience. Regardless of your preference, you are sure to find serenity at a Temple Stay.

It is also important to consider the type of accommodation provided by the temple. Some temples offer individual rooms, while others have same-sex shared spaces, and some provide private rooms that you can share with your family. Most temples will provide you with a traditional bed, which is a mattress that you will extend on the floor. However, there are some exceptions where you can opt for a western-style room, such as the one we stayed in at Haeinsa.

Having said that, I chose the temples based on availability, activities and location (they both were in the Gyeongbuk province). And if you can’t decide on just one, why not both?

How to make a reservation

When it comes to making a reservation, there is a fantastic website available in English that provides information on each temple.

On the home page, you can list the temples by area if you plan your trip with an itinerary in mind. If you already know when you are going and want to see the availability by date, simply leave the drop-down list blank, select the dates, and search.

You will notice that there are two main types of experiences offered. We tried one of each:

Experience Templestay: This is the recommended all-inclusive package, offering a tailored weekend with a schedule full of activities and some free time for yourself. It is usually offered on weekends and is the most popular option.

Freestyle: This is a good alternative if you want to visit a particular temple but the experience is no longer available on your dates. It’s also a good option if you want a less activity-packed schedule. Freestyle is similar to the Experience TempleStay package, but without the signature activities. However, you still get to enjoy the night stay, meals, and meditation activities. In some cases, you can even add on additional activities, as we did at Haeinsa Temple. Freestyle is also an excellent choice if you want more free time to explore and wander around the temple.

One-day experience: If you want to sample the TempleStay program but don’t want to commit to an overnight stay, some temples are offering one-day-only experiences. However, keep in mind that staying overnight is one of the highlights of the TempleStay experience, as it allows you to fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere and routines of the temple. So, if possible, I would recommend opting for an overnight stay if you can.

Once you have chosen your temple, click on the reservation button. Every temple has its payment system. For Haeinsa, I paid online, while Golgulsa was cash-only on the day of arrival. Both temples contacted me for confirmation, and it was easy to communicate with them to discuss my room preferences.

What to expect

Disconnection, introspection, serenity. You will have to follow a tight schedule that almost certainly will include waking up at 4 am. You will leave your room thinking, “why am I doing this”. And then you will instantly be rewarded by the sounds and smells of the temple waking up. And you will enter a small room decorated with vibrant colours and intriguing symbology, where a group of monks are already seated and chanting their morning meditations. And they sing about peace and love and kindness. The giant Buddha statue presiding over the room is several hundred years old (or more) and is looking at you with a calming and serene smile. Outside, the sun is rising with the birdsongs. And all of a sudden, you feel that everything is right in the world and you are in the place you are meant to be.

You get the vibe. Now, to more practical things:

Meals: The meals at the temple are served buffet-style, but it is recommended to be mindful and grateful while eating and to only take what you need. All of the meals are vegan, and we must say that it was one of the best vegan meals we had in South Korea

Religious aspects: Upon arrival at the temple, the staff will give you a brief introduction to Buddhism etiquette and it is customary to abide by a few basic rules. While participation in ceremonies is not mandatory, skipping them would result in missing out on a significant part of the experience. Approach the TempleStay with an open mind and embrace the opportunity to live like a Buddhist monk for a day.

About the meditations: We found these meditation sessions to be particularly enjoyable, but it’s worth noting that we already had some prior meditation knowledge. I encourage you to try meditation before going. However, even if you’re new to meditation, the temple stay is a great place to start. If you already have some knowledge and experience with meditation, you’ll be able to fully appreciate the experience. It’s important to note that the meditation sessions are not guided and the mantras are recited in Korean, as this is not a meditation course.

Facilities: In both experiences, the facilities were excellent. In Golgulsa, the room was more spartan and traditional style but still very roomy, clean and warm.

In Haeinsa, we were stunned by the room. It could be comparable to a hotel room, a hotel with an amazing view!

Booth rooms had en-suite bathrooms.

Will I have the freedom to roam? They ask you not to leave the premises during your stay, but are free to explore and wander around the different buildings within the temple grounds.

What to pack:  Bringing food is forbidden, but you don‘t have to; the food they provide is enough. As for clothing, there’s no need to stress over it since you will be given a comfortable and cute uniform during check-in. It can get chilly in the mountains; pack a jacket for those 5 am meditations.

Language: English-speaking staff will assist you during your stay, so language won’t be a barrier.

If you have any more questions, I will happily answer them in the comments.

A review of my experience

I will explain my experiences in more detail in this post. But to summarise:

Doing multiple temple stays is a great way to compare and experience different styles of temple life.

Golgulsa. If you are up for a fitness challenge, this is for you. Sunmudo is a martial art practised by monks at Golgulsa for decades. You can be part of this legacy for a day and unleash your inner warrior monk; awesome, right? Don’t expect a chill activity, you will break a sweat (more if you combine it with the 108 prostrations), but it is great fun.

Haeinsa. Haeinsa Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a must-visit destination in South Korea, even if you are not taking part in the TempleStay program. During the day, you will be sharing the temple grounds with other tourists, but once the sun sets, you will have the privilege of having the temple all to yourself.

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