A very detailed guide to help you plan your cycling trip.
I’ve just arrived home from a fantastic weekend in Sun Moon Lake, and I’ve written this guide to give you a comprehensive picture of cycling around the lake. I will try to dissect the route step by step and also give you other practical hints on where to stay and the best place to start your tour (spoiler alert: it’s Ita Thao).
Table of contents
- Introduction to Sun Moon Lake
- Why Ita Thao?
- The cycling route:
- Scenic stops around the lake
- Ita Thao: Practical info
Introduction to Sun Moon Lake
Sun Moon Lake is one of Taiwan’s top destinations and is featured in every guidebook for a good reason. The lush mountains surrounding the lake create a stunning backdrop to the sparkling turquoise water, and the towns dotted around the shoreline have a festive and relaxed seaside-like atmosphere. However, the crown jewel of this location is undoubtedly the incredible cycling tour that encircles the lake. With multiple lanes designated solely for bicycles, CNN has even named it one of the top ten cycling routes in the world.
So that’s no wonder that this place is flooded with bus tours. For this reason, we were a bit sceptical about including Sun Moon Lake in our already busy itinerary. However, we were really in the mood for a cycling adventure, so we opted to give it a try.
Was it worth it? For the cycling excursion, yes it’s definitely worth it and highly recommended. But I wouldn’t plan on staying more than a couple of days because the towns around the lake felt too touristy for our taste, with large concrete hotels that have taken over the mountains. I am also aware that we went in March and the lake water didn’t quite match the turquoise pictures we saw online so maybe if you go in other seasons you will have a totally different experience than me!
What I mean is, choose this destination for cycling and outdoor adventure and not for culture and architecture and your expectations will be met. With that said, I am happy to provide you with some helpful tips to ensure that you have the best time at Sun Moon Lake!
Why Ita Thao?
While I was looking for information on the cycle tour around Sun Moon Lake, I noticed that most tours start from Shuishe. Shuishe is a very convenient starting point because it’s the largest town on Sun Moon Lake, has more bike rental outlets and is easier to reach from Taipei. However, I want to offer an alternative starting point from a smaller and more charming town on the other side of the lake: Ita Thao.
We made the decision to start from Ita Thao not only because we always gravitate towards alternative options, but also because Ita Thao presented itself as an indigenous community with more soul and character than its larger counterpart, Shuishe. In all of our travels, we are deeply interested in learning about ethnic minorities, so we simply couldn’t resist.
Apart from its cultural history, Ita Thao’s smaller size makes it feel more atmospheric and less crowded (although it does have a few concrete hotels, so don’t expect a small village). If you want to feel its magic, seat on the stairs of the pier as the sun sets, and have a picnic with all the gorgeous food you can buy on the night market. We stayed for two nights, and each evening there were artists singing and painting, as well as lots of families enjoying snacks by the water. It was one of those moments that make you feel like you’re truly on holiday.
I will give you more practical information on where to stay and eat in Ita Thao at the end of this article.
Another reason we chose to stay in Ita Thao is due to its strategic location for cycling around the lake. Starting from Ita Thao means tackling the hardest climb at the beginning when you are at your freshest, so it’s all downhill from there. Halfway around the lake, you will come across Shuishe, which is a very convenient spot for a lunch break.
Those were the pros, let’s see some cons:
There are fewer bike outlets to choose from and the bikes available may be more outdated than those in Shuishe. (they were totally fine for us but if you want something special like a tandem, it will be harder to find here).
To leave Ita Thao there are no buses or taxis around, so your only way out is by boat. While it’s not a big issue since boats depart every few minutes, it’s still something to keep in mind.
So, are you sold on Ita Thao? If the answer is yes, let’s see what the route looks like and which are the best stops along the way.
The cycling route:
Should you do the whole path around the lake? Definitely. As I mentioned, for me it was the highlight of Sun Moon Lake. But if you don’t have the time or the energy, that’s fine: we encountered many people who rented a bike in the visitor centre to ride just the scenic paths around there, that’s always an option.
The full loop around the lake is 27 Km (17 miles). It’s hard to estimate an exact time frame for completing the tour since part of the experience involves taking it easy and stopping at various points of interest along the way. We left Ita Thao at approximately 9 am and arrived back at 6 pm. We did it clockwise.
If you are doing this during the summer months I would advise you to start earlier than that to avoid the midday heat as much as possible.
Scenic stops around the lake
You will ideally leave Ita Thao early in the morning (unless you are like us and sacrifice the early start because you can’t resist the breakfast buffet in your hotel).
Ita Thao is a small village located at water level, so your first leg of the journey will involve a steep uphill climb. These initial kilometres will also be on a road shared with cars. This may sound daunting, but it turned out to be one of our favourite parts of the trip. We initially felt apprehensive about cycling along the roadside, but there was little traffic in the area, which allowed us to speed along easily. Traffic is more congested around Shuishe, but thankfully that’s where a dedicated bike trail begins.
As you ascend, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views. After cycling for several kilometres on the road, you’ll come across a cluster of religious buildings, with the Xuan Zang Temple 日月潭玄奘寺 being a must-visit stop. This Buddhist temple not only offers a stunning view of the surrounding area but also houses the remains of the renowned Buddhist monk, Xuanzang. Xuanzang was a Chinese Buddhist monk from the 7th century who famously embarked on an epic journey from China to India in order to bring Indian texts to China. His journey was later immortalised in a 16th-century Chinese epic novel called “Journey to the West,” which has become a beloved part of Chinese culture. Nerdy fun fact: the novel also served as inspiration for the popular manga series, Dragon Ball.
The next stops are the lovely Ci’en pagoda 慈恩塔 and the small Xuanguang temple but for these ones, you have to deviate a little bit from the main road.
After these buildings, there are some road ups and downs and turns until you arrive at a tunnel. Stop here and take the bike lane because otherwise, you will continue on the road.
After the tunnel, you will start riding on a lane that’s exclusively for bicycles, which means that you can ride more slowly and smell the roses.
You will then continue through peaceful trails until you start passing families and tandems coming from the other way. That means you are arriving at the visitor centre.
The visitor centre is a stunning contemporary building designed by Japanese architect Norihiko Dan. It is a nice break for shade, water and toilets, it also has some free exhibitions worth looking at to learn about the lake. When we visited there was a photography exhibition showcasing all the beauty of this area. Pro tip: if you are a fellow matcha addict, don’t miss the matcha ice creams in the cafeteria, the perfect sweet trait to charge your batteries to hit the road again.
You can learn more about the building in this detailed article.
Around the visitor centre, you can explore some secondary paths to scenic spots. We recommend the round path to the lake, from the viewing point you can observe Lalu Island, a sacred floating island considered to be the home of the Thao ancestral spirits.
The next leg from the visitor centre to Shuishe is the busiest, but it also has some of the most scenic views, you will cross a couple of bridges and for the first time, you will ride very close to the water.
You have arrived at Shuishe! After the tranquil half-round of the lake, Shuishe feels quite chaotic. However, it comes at the perfect time for a lunch break and to seek shelter from the midday sun. Fortunately, Shuishe offers several dining options although they are not very exciting (compared to the other culinary delights that one can find throughout this food lover’s paradise, Taiwan).
We decided to eat in the hot pot restaurant 敝姓鍋 – 南投日月潭店 because it was far enough from the hustle and bustle of the town and had good reviews. This is a decent option: with air-con (thank me later) and inexpensive hot pots with many ingredients to choose from (including vegan options).
With our bellies full and energy recharged, we continued the last half of the bike trail.
According to the map we had, the bike trail was supposed to end a few kilometres after Shuishe. It’s possible that we had an outdated version of the map because we discovered many more bike lane segments than what was depicted on the map.
The next stop on the tour is the Wenwu Temple 日月潭文武廟. Before arriving at the temple though, have your eyes peeled for the various small floating islands in the lake. These artificial floating structures are fully functioning gardens and from this viewpoint, you can observe the farmers working in them.
When you find the sign indicating Wenwu Temple, it may seem like you have to abandon the bike trail and continue by the road. Don’t do that. If you continue on the bike trail you will eventually arrive at the stairs of the temple. I find this information especially relevant because this is one of the most heavily trafficked segments and the bike lane on the other side is peaceful and easy.
From the last leg of the tour, don’t miss the cute frog sculpture on the water called Nine Frogs Stack 九蛙疊像. Also, if you want to finish the day with a visit to the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, the next and last stop is the cable car that will take you there. We skipped this attraction because we were not very sold on the idea of indigenous culture mixed with theme parks, but if you have visited it and want to give us your opinion, feel free to leave us a comment below!
That would be the entire bike trail around the lake; now you can enjoy a well-deserved rest in Ita Thao and a visit to the food market to gain back all those burned calories!
Ita Thao: Practical info
Where to stay
Our choice (mid-range option):
One thing I like about Ita Thao is that many hotels celebrate the indigenous heritage of the place, so they are beautifully decorated with cultural themes… and a lot of owls! Says the Thao legend that a girl was expelled from the community for being pregnant outside the wedlock and then she came back as an owl, that’s why owls are the protection animals for the Thao.
As a mid-range choice, we opted to stay at Yuan Su Inn Sun Moon Lake. This charming hotel embodies the spirit of a hostel. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, while the decor adds a touch of fun and quirkiness. The staff members are exceptionally friendly and proficient in English. Additionally, we enjoyed the added perk of a buffet breakfast included with our stay.
Price: A double room with a bathroom and balcony, yummy breakfast included, is £46.
I found this hotel through Agoda. I like using Agoda because it has a wide range of hotels to choose from and a convenient rewards program. Check the availability for Yuan-Su Inn here: https://agoda.tp.st/a2NABVtf.
Luxury options
There are many beautiful boutique hotels and spas around the lake, but to reach most of them you will need your own wheels.
I find the idea of a swimming pool to relax your muscles after a day of cycling, especially attractive. Check this pool in Fleur De Chine Hotel https://agoda.tp.st/StFhgKZv.
Or the tastefully decorated boutique spa The Lalu. Check the pictures and book it on Hotels.com: https://prf.hn/l/xndAj5N.
Budget options
A bed in a shared dorm in this gorgeous and modern hostel is £18. Check The Owl Hostel in Agoda: https://agoda.tp.st/rEGh7cle
Where to eat
Almost the entirety of the town is covered by food stalls and restaurants so you won’t be hungry. For all our meals we chose the snack and picnic option because there were so many tasty-looking snacks we wanted to try, and sitting by the lake on the pier stairs felt more correct than packed inside a restaurant.
One of my favourite vegetarian stalls was Shmashuni. They served all kinds of vegetables and mushrooms fried to perfection. The prices go from 150 Taiwanese dollars for one small portion to 200 for the big one (£3,80 / £5).
If you prefer a restaurant, there are several where you can try traditional Thao food. 邵族毛家風味餐廳 looked especially tasty but also popular among the visitors, so I advise you to reserve in advance using the QR code they have on the entrance.
Where to rent a bike
Ita Thao has fewer rental options than Shueishe, we counted two open places when we were there. We used 叱吒風輪 自行車租借 捷安特, and we paid £21 for two electric bikes. These stores are open from 7 in the morning to 23 at night, so you can make the most of your day. If you want to start before 7, For the same price you can rent your bike the day before and keep it during the night.
Should I go electric? That of course depends very much on your stamina. We chose electric because we were not very sure of our long-distance biking skills and I think we did the right thing. Though many people do the trail around the lake with a push bike, don’t underestimate the climbs, especially on the road; if you are not used to it, it can be very stressful. Also depending on the time of the year, the weather plays a huge factor. I guess during summer in the heat an electric bike comes in very handy.
When to go
Winter and early spring are ideal weather-wise, We went on the last week of March and it rained a little bit but the temperature was perfect. It’s also low-tourist season so the bike lanes are all for yourself. The downside is that the lake is not at its most pretty (still gorgeous but not like many pictures you will see with turquoise water).
Going there and moving around
The only drawback of Ita Thao is its relatively isolated location, as it is not connected to any public transportation except for boats. This can pose a bit of a challenge if you don’t have your own wheels.
To reach Ita Thao, the town with the most public transport connections to Sun Moon Lake is Puli. However, there are also buses available from Taichung, although they will drop you off in Shuishe. We decided to take a taxi since it would conveniently bring us directly to Ita Thao. Taxis in Taiwan are reasonably priced, so it was a convenient and affordable option for us.
To leave Ita Thao is more tricky because you won’t find any taxis there so the only way out is by boat. Is not a huge problem since crossing the lake on a boat is fun and you could do this anyway only as a tourist option. Just be careful to take the direct boat to Shuishe and not the scenic tour boat.
To move around the towns on the lake, the best option is by bike, of course!
If you are short on time or overwhelmed with the logistics, there are many companies, like Viator, that offer one-day excursions to Sun Moon Lake from Taipei.